words from true masters

suzy menkes interviews riccardo tisci about the new givenchy couture collection for the international herald tribune:

Q. You talk about family. Do you believe in the family of fashion?

A. I am 35 years old and I really think the important thing in my daily life is family. It is very important in life, to have people that you believe and believe in you. I’m always surrounded by women. Woman is the biggest expression of my life, my muses: Mariacarla [Bosconi, the model], Marina Abramovic [the artist], Courtney Love. Even my team is mostly women. Why? Because I always felt at home around women, since I was a little kid; most of my friends were girls… Women, in Italy, they say, do not wear the trousers. But women there are very strong; they know what they want. And that has been the success of my life.

Q. Are the men you showed in the last month’s show the guys that your couture women go out with?

A. My woman is so strong, so confident of her sexuality, so confident of her decisions that she can play with both worlds. She can wear a tuxedo with a romantic shirt; she can wear a jacket, like a men’s jacket, with a mini-dress and high heels.

Q. When you talk about your dark side coming from religion, there’s not much darkness in this haute couture collection. It starts off all white with no black at all! Is this your happy side?

A. You know, dark for me is not always black, it’s not only dark colors, it’s not about goth and black cloth. It’s much more mental. This collection is languid, the shape is like a drop on the body… I think it’s less dark. It’s not black — for the first time in my collection in 10 years of my career. The darkest color is brown; it’s from brown to white. It’s difficult for me to do a collection that is from Look 1 to 50 completely different colors, because my way of working is about believing one thing and developing it to the end. This season is mostly about salmon, flesh colors, beige.
It’s my romantic side, but the concept is very gothic and very dark.

read the full interview here


throw it in the bag

Pierre Koenig Case Study #21